Exploring the Southern East Circuit in Tanzania during whale shark season

While the North buzzes with safari convoys and Zanzibar’s beaches fill up with sun-seekers, The Southern East circuit of Tanzania remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Here, travelers can swim alongside whale sharks in Mafia Island, wander through the haunting ruins of Kilwa, and take boat safaris on the Rufiji River in Selous (Nyerere National Park). If you’re looking for raw beauty, authentic culture, and fewer crowds, this is the adventure for you

Mafia Island & Whale Shark Season

The jewel of Tanzania’s south, Mafia Island, truly shines during whale shark season. From October to February, rich plankton blooms draw the world’s largest fish to its warm, clear waters. Gliding effortlessly beneath the surface, these gentle giants offer an unforgettable experience. Swimming alongside them is nothing short of surreal and a once-in-a-lifetime moment that captures the magic of the Indian Ocean.

Beyond whale sharks, Mafia Island is a diver’s paradise. Utende and Chole Bay (within the Marine Park) offer pristine reefs, snorkeling, and mangrove forests.

A park fee of $25 per day helps conservation efforts. Kilindoni, the island’s port town, is where ferries arrive and whale shark tours launch. A short tuk-tuk ride connects Kilindoni to Utende.

Kilwa: Walking Through Forgotten History

Just south of Dar es Salaam lies Kilwa Kisiwani, once more powerful than Zanzibar in Swahili trade history. Its ruins, mosques, palaces, and trading posts  are UNESCO World Heritage Sites that tell stories of Omani traders, Islamic architecture, and the birthplace of the Swahili culture.

The best part? Kilwa’s beaches and ruins are often empty. Unlike Zanzibar, here you may stand alone among centuries-old stone walls with nothing but the sound of the ocean. For travelers craving authenticity, Kilwa is a rare gift.

Selous (Nyerere National Park): Safari by Land & River

If the North offers safari by land, the south offers safari by land and water.

Selous, now officially Nyerere National Park, is one of Africa’s largest protected areas, with the mighty Rufiji River winding through its heart.

Here you can watch elephants cross the river at sunset, hippos yawning in the shallows, and crocodiles basking on sandy banks. Boat safaris make Selous unique, while game drives take you into landscapes of woodlands, lakes, and endless horizons. And unlike the Serengeti, there are no traffic jams of safari jeeps — just the wild, as it should be.

How to Do the Southern Loop

The beauty of the southern circuit is that it can be done in one adventurous loop:

Here are tips and bus information on how to get there;

Dar → Mafia

To get to Mafia Island from Dar es Salaam, you have two main options: by flight or by boat.

Option 1: By Flight

Airlines: Coastal Air and Auric Air operate daily flights to Mafia Island.

Cost: Flights typically cost around $150 one way if purchased in advance.

Duration: The flight takes approximately 30 minutes, offering beautiful aerial views of the coastline.

Option 2: By Boat

To get to Mafia by Boat, you will have to take a bus to Nyamisati via Bungu off Kilwa Road.

The ferry from Nyamisati usually leaves at different times depending on the tides and maintenance. Expect delays, so consider the possibility of an overnight stay in Nyamisati. You will have to let the Slow Leopard Staff know so as to contact the ferry station and confirm the departure time for that day. 

The ferry is usually cheap, ranging around 20,000 TSH or  $10. You can also book a private speedboat, for around 100,000 TSH per person.  

Mafia → Kilwa

Return by ferry to Nyamisati, take a bus to the main road, where you can catch buses going south to Kilwa. Once in Kilwa Masoko, you can take a shared taxi (~3,000 TSH) or a private taxi (~25,000 TSH) to The Slow Leopard. Alternatively, give The Slow Leopard Kilwa a heads up on your arrival and they can help coordinate your pick up. 

Kilwa → Selous

After a relaxed stay at Slow Leopard Kilwa, you can take a bus to Selous/Nyerere National Park via Kibiti into Mloka. Buses and daladalas run the route, or you can request a private transfer.

Selous → Dar

After exploring the Rufiji River and national park from Selous River Camp, you can return to Dar via Kilwa Road (5–6 hours) or take a quick flight that brings you back to Dar in under an hour.

Backpacker’s Tip: Public buses, ferries, and local guesthouses make this entire loop affordable and safe. It’s one of the last parts of Tanzania where independent travelers can explore without heavy tourist pressure. Just keep in mind that these routes can also be pole pole (slow) and a bit more unpredictable, so maybe don't book your international flight home for the next day

You can also do this whole trip in reverse, by flying into Selous and heading from there to Kilwa.  

Conservation Matters

The South doesn't just reward you with fewer crowds — your presence here actively helps protect it. Park fees at Nyerere and Mafia Marine Park fund rangers, anti-poaching patrols, and habitat management. When more travellers visit Kilwa's ruins or take a boat safari on the Rufiji, it sends a signal that these places matter — and are worth protecting. Destinations that don't get visited tend not to get funded.

Swimming with whale sharks is its own kind of privilege. Always choose operators that keep a respectful distance, limit swimmer numbers, and support marine conservation. The whale sharks will thank you. Probably.

Why the South?

Because it’s authentic, raw, and beautiful. These destinations offer something the Serengeti and Zanzibar don’t have: space, quiet, and the feeling that you actually discovered something.

Both Kilwa and Stone Town are UNESCO Heritage sites with rich historical experiences, but Kilwa feels more welcoming. Wandering around the beach towns and ruins there, you're unlikely to be followed by someone trying to sell you a bracelet. You’ll  feel more like a local than a tourist, and the history hits differently when you have it to yourself. 

Selous/ Nyerere National Park is the same story on safari. Despite being bigger than its northern brother, Selous is a unique part of Tanzania that  is often overlooked.

You get to experience the Rufiji River, one of the largest rivers in East Africa, and the source of food for the whale sharks. 

Fun Fact: The water from the Rufiji River, carried by the north monsoon (Kaskazi) winds between October and February, enriches the waters around Mafia Island with plankton — the whale shark's favorite food. 

Selous / Nyerere Nationa Park offers something the northern parks simply can't: the Rufiji River, elephants crossing at dusk, hippos yawning in the shallows — and no queue of minibuses waiting at the same crossing.

So if you’re planning your next adventure, skip the crowds of the north — and head south.